Tech Articles

Saddlebag Fitment

2008-07-10T14:47:00Z

While some saddlebags are model specific, the majority of the bags that we carry are a universal fit. You will find the dimensions for most of the bags in the product descriptions. The best way to see whether or not a set will fit your bike is to cut a cardboard template out using the length and height of the bags you want. Hold the template up to the bike to get an idea of how the bags will fit.

This will also be helpful in determining whether or not you will need to relocate your turn signals. In some cases, you can simply relocate the signals further back on the fender struts. Other times, they will need to be relocated off the struts completely. We do carry a number of solutions for this including license plate mounts that will accommodate your stock signals and license plate frames with built-in turn signals.

One thing that all of the saddlebags have in common is that they require the use of support brackets. These brackets bolt up to the fender struts. Their purpose is to keep the bags from interfering with the rear brake and final drive systems. If you do not wish to leave your saddlebags mounted all the time and you want a clean look when they are removed, detachable brackets are also available.

By Bmilza - J&P Cycles E-Tech

Extended Control Cables, Brake Lines, and Handlebar Wiring

2008-07-10T09:00:00Z

Some of the most frequently asked questions we receive are with regard to extended control lines for oversized handlebars. For example, “I would like to put a set of 20” Wild-1 Psycho Chubby Apes on my bike. What length cables and brake line do I need to order?”

If there were some scientific formula to calculate the proper cable and brake line lengths for every possible combination of bars and risers on every single model of bike, it would make ordering a bit easier. Unfortunately, there is not so we recommend that you mount the bars first, then take an accurate measurement for the proper length cables and brake line.

One method to do so is by using some thin gauge wire. Once you have the bars in position, route the wire in the same manner that you would like the cables to run. For example, for throttle cables: start at the carburetor (or throttle body) and route the wire up to the throttle housing on the bars. Be sure to turn the bars all the way to the left and then back to the right to assure that you will have enough cable to cover your full turning radius. You are now ready to take your measurement. Use the same method to measure for the clutch cable and your brake line. Once you have these measurements, subtract the length of your stock cables and brake line to find out how many inches over stock you will need to order (for example, +6 or +8 over stock).

Do not overlook the fact that you will also need to extend your handlebar control wiring. This method of measuring will work for them as well. We offer handlebar wiring harness extension kits that are available in +4 through +24 inch lengths. These kits are also available for the new Harley-Davidson Touring models with the electronic throttle control.

By Bmilza - J&P Cycles E-Tech

Proper Engine Break-In

2008-05-09T20:59:00Z

When a discussion about engine life of the Harley® engine occurs, the participants, directly or indirectly, are usually talking about how long the pistons survive. At S&S it is no different. Many of the performance kits we offer have engine life ratings based on how long we feel the pistons will last. It is for this reason that "proper engine break-in" is critical and be addressed, because without a good foundation the structure collapses.

The expression "proper engine break-in" is often misunderstood by many riders and enthusiasts. Misunderstanding what "proper engine break-in" means can lead to a variety of mechanical problems, the most common being 'scuffed" or" galled" pistons. While defective parts are sometimes the culprit here, the trouble usually is traced directly to improper break-in. To clarify "proper engine break-in" and minimize damaged pistons, we must first look at a few important related elements. These are: piston fit, engine assembly, ignition timing, carburetion, and engine maintenance.

Piston Fit - Essentially, piston fit is the measurement, or clearance, between the piston skirt and cylinder walls that enclose it. The object for long piston/engine life is to fit the pistons to as tight a running clearance as possible which allows the pistons to function without generating excessive heat. Basic piston design elements dictate what the running clearance range of a piston will be. Looser than minimum piston fits mean the pistons are free to move around in the cylinder bores more than usual. Tighter fits eliminate these extra movements. Less movement means reduced wear on the skirts and better piston ring life since the rings will have to work less to contain the upper portion of the piston during movement. S&S supplies two fitting ranges for each piston we sell. This is done to accommodate the many riders and riding applications.

Close fit - Fitting pistons to the minimum side of the clearance range requires accurate assembly procedures - careful measuring of the pistons and precision boring and honing of the cylinders for proper fit. Close fit pistons also require a careful break-in. The minimum side of the clearance range is recommended for the patient street rider who puts a lot of miles on his machine and wants the most out of each engine overhaul. Generally speaking, cast piston types offer the rider better longevity although numerous reports of excellent service from customers using S&S forged pistons have been received.

Loose fit - S&S "loose fit" specifications give the rider more break-in leeway as they allow him to run the engine at higher rpms sooner without generating significant amounts of extra heat. Less heat means the pistons will be less likely to "seize" in the cylinder bores with the resultant galling. The sacrifices that he makes are: less total miles because the clearance/wear established over many miles of operation is taken away right from the start, poorer piston ring seal and less overall ring life, and more piston noise because the pistons are free to move around more in the cylinders. Looser piston fits are recommended for the rider who desires a minimum of break-in time such as in racing applications. If a lot of racing is intended, the rule of thumb is used forged pistons because they are stronger. As a last word, try to fit the pistons more towards the tight side rather than the loose side.

Engine Assembly
While lubrication is important for every motorcycle engine, newly-built motors usually require an extra supply of oil to reduce the friction and heat that occurs during break-in. This is because the "new" surfaces are actually rough. Eventually, after break-in, these surfaces wear smooth, which in turn reduces the amount of friction that causes excessive heat buildup inside a new engine. To insure that the pistons get proper lubrication during the break-in process, the builder must put a crosshatch pattern of fine scratches on the cylinder walls. These tiny grooves act as oil troughs and are put in the cylinder walls by running a honing tool up and down the cylinder bore. S&S has found that a crosshatch pattern with a 60 angle tends to retain oil best.

Just as proper lubrication is important to piston life during initial break-in, proper piston alignment in the cylinder bore is a key factor that determines an engine's longevity. Correct alignment will assure a better ring seal and longer ring life and minimal thrusting on parts of the piston where thrusting doesn't normally take place. Piston alignment should always be checked. Using a new set of connecting rods which the builder assumes to be straight will not always insure that the pistons will be properly aligned. It is sometimes necessary to "tweak" a new rod to compensate for slight crankcase and cylinder machining deficiencies. We strongly recommend following the rod alignment procedure outlined in our S&S stroker and Sidewinder kit instructions to ensure that the pistons are properly aligned in the cylinder bores.

Good general engine assembly procedures are a must too. Remember the old saying, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness?" An engine assembly is no exception. Many of the scratches found on pistons after disassembly result from dirt particles that were left in the engine during building. There is no substitute for a clean engine assembly. And for cleaning individual parts before assembly, nothing beats plain soap and water for removing dirt.

Ignition Timing
Excessive heat in a new engine will ultimately destroy the pistons if allowed to build up. Improper ignition timing can cause additional heat. During initial break-in of a new engine, be sure the engine is timed correctly. We recommend using factory stock ignition timing specifications at the start. Later, after the engine is broken in and heat has become less of a factor; you can experiment. The final ignition timing setting usually depends on the modifications done to the engine, the way the motorcycle will be used and the grade of gasoline available.

Carburetion
Another way to offset heat in a new engine is with slightly rich carburetor jetting. Richer mixtures burn cooler. Conversely, a carb with a lean mixture can destroy new pistons (as well as a few older ones), because lean jetting will cause the mixture in the combustion chamber to burn "hotter." If there is any question about the carb's fuel/air mixture, remember that it is better to jet slightly rich than too lean. The rich/lean question is especially critical for engines that are equipped with sophisticated high performance carburetors. Frequently these types of carbs, especially when installed on high performance, big inch H-D engines, have leaner jetting for optimum performance. If you have made some performance changes in your engine and intend to use the stock carb, always check the jetting. If you are going to use an aftermarket carburetor; find out what jetting is installed. Inform the carb manufacturer about your engine modifications, and then ask their recommendations about jetting. Ask if they have actually performed tests using their carburetors on engines similar to yours. Obviously, you don't want your newly assembled 96 cubic inch Evo Sidewinder to be their "guinea pig." A meticulously assembled engine, even with proper break-in procedures, will be ruined quickly with too lean a carburetor jetting. Be certain of your carb and its jetting so it won't be a problem during and after break-in.

Engine Maintenance
The first rule for proper engine maintenance is to use a good air cleaner that actually filters the air. It is amazing how much junk and foreign matter a non-filtered carburetor will suck in. The second rule is to keep the engine's internal parts clean and well lubricated, use high quality motor oil and change it often. We have used Aero Shell (grade 100, 50 weight), Valvoline Racing oil (50 weight), and of course Harley® oil, all with success in most of our S&S street engines. For Bonneville and drag racing, we use Torco racing oil. We recommend that you use what has been working well for you in the past. In addition to high grade oil, engine longevity can be prolonged by changing oil on a regular basis. Many of our customers who change oil regularly (usually from 200 to 800 miles between changes) report terrific engine/piston life. If cost is a factor, we recommend that you at least change the oil after the first 100 miles of new engine break-in. After that, try and change oil every 1000 or 50 miles.

Gasoline octane rating is critical to an engine's life and peak performance too. As a rule, low octane fuel as well as old or bad gasoline burns poorly causing heat and detonation. Continual detonation will quickly damage the pistons, rings, and even the cylinder heads. Your safest bet is to burn the highest octane gasoline that you can.

Now, let's get back to the "proper engine break-in": The purpose of engine break-in is to establish the overall piston, ring and cylinder wear patterns without causing damage to any of these parts. This "break-in" usually takes from 50 to 2000 miles, depending on the engine and how it was built. For a better understanding about engine break-in, we should examine what really happens inside the cylinders during the break-in period. As the piston travels up and down within the cylinder bore, friction generated from the new piston rings on the freshly bored cylinder walls causes the edges of the rings to get extremely hot. This process is necessary to properly "seat" the rings, pistons and cylinder wall mating surfaces. If they get too hot, they begin to wear excessively and prevent the seating process from taking place. The result is hot combustion gases blow by the rings down the piston skirts. As this "blow-by" increases, the pistons, piston rings and the surrounding cylinder walls get hotter and hotter. The heat literally burns and dries the oil film on the cylinder walls faster than the lubrication system can replenish it. The key word here is heat, because if it continues unchecked, scuffing occurs between the cylinder walls and the piston skirts. As the piston skirts get hotter, the piston begins to expand causing more friction and more heat. This vicious circle continues until the piston gets too large for the cylinder bore; the piston skirts begin to melt and stick to the cylinder walls; the skirts become galled and the pistons seize in the cylinders. Destruction of a piston can literally take place in seconds.

Scuffed pistons due to extreme heat can normally be avoided by running the engine at various speeds during the break-in period, rather than maintaining a constant rpm. By gently increasing and decreasing engine rpm, heat buildup between the pistons and cylinder walls becomes more tolerable as oil is replenished to reduce friction and cool the mating surfaces. Be sure that the time of acceleration is not too long. Several short bursts are adequate to generate enough heat to assure proper piston ring seating while not harming the engine. It is also important not to lug the engine. Lugging an engine means putting the engine under an extremely stressful load. A common way to lug an engine is to operate it at an extremely low rpm while the transmission is in a higher gear (for instance, leaving the transmission in fourth gear when it should be in second or third where engine speed is better matched to transmission speed). Lugging causes extreme stress between the rear thrust faces of each piston and the cylinder walls. Small bits of piston skirt can break away causing the rear surface to scuff. The best prevention for lugging an engine (either old or new) is to downshift to a lower gear where the engine runs more freely, and the transmission assists the engine in delivering peak power to the rear wheel.

Well, that should do it. To summarize what we've talked about, here is the sequence we recommend for "proper engine break-in":

Fit the pistons on the tight side of the recommended fitting range.
Use good general engine assembly habits, keeping in mind the earlier points we discussed, including ignition timing, carburetion and maintenance.
On initial engine startup, don't just sit and idle the motor while you admire your work or tinker with minor adjustments. Heat buildup at this point can be excessive.
The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Most engine damage will initially occur during this period. Remember that if proper ring seating does not take place, the resultant blow-by will set the stage for possible future damage because there won't be sufficient oil on the cylinder walls for proper lubrication. So keep the heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. And vary the speed.
The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3500 rpm or about 50-55 mph. Do not lug the engine and continue to vary the speed.
Up to 1000 miles, the speed can be run up to 60 to 70. Continue to run the engine at different speeds including the lower 4~5 mph ranges. When the 1000 mile mark is reached, most Evolution engines should be broken in. Evolution engines tend to run slightly cooler; and therefore do not require as long a break-in period as earlier engines using iron cylinders.
From 1000 to 2000 miles basically use the same procedures as before, but you can be a little more liberal with the rpm range. Avoid overheating the engine and putting any hard strain on it (drag racing, trailer towing, sidecar operation).
2000 miles and up, have fun! Just remember, while our recommendations sound good and normally work, there is no cook book formula for proper engine break-in. Common sense and knowing what is really happening inside those cylinders are the best tools for break-in. We at S&S realize that after riding a stocker, a Sidewinder or Stroker feels very strong and the temptation to "turn it on" is overwhelming, even hard to resist. If this urge to run the engine hard overcomes you before engine break-in is completed, extensive engine damage can result. The obvious way to help prevent sticking the pistons is to give them a loose fit which naturally will detract somewhat from piston life and quiet running. This may be the best route to follow for those riders who want to go fast immediately. Keep in mind though, even loosely fit pistons should be allowed at least 50 to 100 miles of break-in for ring seating purposes. And, pistons and rings fit in this manner will have to be changed more frequently.

Complements of S&S Cycle

Slang

2008-05-09T20:32:00Z

One thing that I hear often on the phones here at J&P® that is highly popular is the phrase "old school". Another term bandied about is "bobber". Where do these phrases come from? What do they mean? What is the definition of a "chopper"? Today's article will deal with the origins of the slang used in the motorcycle world.

Let's start with the term "Chopper". These days this word has come to mean any custom motorcycle. However, in its origins, this referred to a bike that has all the extra goodies chopped off to provide a bike with the minimum essentials required for operation. Fenders cut down or off, smaller gas tanks being fitted, changing handlebars, changing forks or cutting the bikes neck to change the fork rake are all examples of "chopping" a bike.

In the 40�s and 50�s, "Bobbing" a fender became popular it is where the rear of a fender is cut off, or the front section is removed and the fender is rotated forward to retain the ducktail look of the stock fender. In 1980, Mother Harley® took its styling cue from what the riders were out there creating when it introduced the FXWG. The rear fender on this bike is called a Fat Bob® and its styling is still in use today on Softails® and FXDWG models.

"Fat Bob®" is another word to discuss. This term came from a bike that still had the big 31/2 gallon gas tanks, with a bobbed rear fender. Fat tanks, Bobbed fender, hence Fat Bob®. This style bike generally had the stock width, stock length front end. These are all features of what today's definition of a "Bobber" entail.

In the mid 50's Harley® began production of the K model series bikes followed by the XL models in 1957. These smaller, lighter bikes had fork assemblies that where not as wide as the heavyweight bikes already in production. During these years, the terms "wide glide®" and "narrow glide" were coined. Fitted with 19 inch wheels, it was very popular to get rid of the fat tanks, scrap the wide front end and install the narrow glide front end assembly on Big Twin (chop all that unneeded stuff off!). Willie G, the styling Guru at H-D® followed this lead in the early 70's. That's where the frame and engine of an FL series bike was factory equipped with the fork assembly from an XL series bike. This marriage resulted in F(LH) + X(L) = FX. To this day all FX series bike have 19 (or 21) inch wheels. The factory has followed in the bike fashion field more often than they like to admit.

Did you know that Harley® did not design the original Softail® Chassis? Unfortunately I do not remember the name of the company that designed this groundbreaking chassis, but I do remember in the early 80's seeing them advertised in the Chopper magazines. The company was from St Louis, and Harley® bought all the designs and rights to this product. Harley® knew a good thing when they saw it.

"Softail®" is another word we can define. Prior to 1958, all Harley® Big Twin models had rigid frames (hardtails). In 58, the rear suspension styling from the K & XL was brought over to the FL series bikes. The shocks and swingarm added a good bit of poundage to the heavyweight line. A very common thing to achieve a cleaner look for bike builders since the 60's, is to use a pre 57 or custom built rigid frame (Chop it down, get rid of the extra weight). When it arrived, the Softail® copied the clean line of a rigid frame, with the wonderful advantage of rear suspension. Hence coining of the word "Softail®". I started out riding hardtails when I began, because I didn't know better. As I get older, I am less inclined to sacrifice comfort for looks. But it is hard to beat the clean appearance of a true chopper.

Another term used in this article is "Big Twin". This slang term means any of the larger displacement engines that do not have the transmission in a common case like a Sportster®.A term for the XL engines could be "Little Twin" but that has never caught on.

Next we can move on to engines. "Flathead" is the slang term for an engine that has the valves along side the cylinder. Another term for this is "Side-valve". Automotive engines of this type are referred to as flatheads. The flathead motor began production in 1929 and the final version left the factory in 1973. That's a production run of a whopping 44 years!!!! The "Knucklehead" engine gets its name from the appearance of the rocker assemblies. They look like your knuckles when you make a fist. These where produced from 1936 to 1947. An upside down dishpan is what the valve covers of a Panhead resemble. This style motor was made 1948 to 1965. An "Ironhead" is the nickname of a Sportster® engine built between 1957 & 1985. The "Shovelhead" name is supposed to have originated from looking like a folding military shovel. The Shovelheads production run started in 1966 and lasted to 1984. The next engine has 2 common names, Evolution® (Evo® for short) or "Blockhead". The cylinders are squarer than a shovel's, thus the name Blockhead. "Evolution®" is what Harley® termed its engine program after the buy back from AMF. This production run was 1984-1999. The final engine built from 99 on, got bigger cooling fins, which gives it the moniker "Fathead", it is more commonly referred to as a "Twin-Cam®" (TC or TC88).

We've covered a number of common terms today, but still haven't said anything about "old school". I imagine a fair definition of this would be to do your design in the same manner of earlier styles. Today we have a huge range of aftermarket parts allowing us to give our bikes a wide variety of styles. The folks that developed things like "Bobbers" or the original "Choppers" did not have that luxury. They had to cut, shape, and build their own parts to get things to look the way they wanted. To me, that's Old School.

That's all for this month. Hope this doesn't sound too much like a ramble from the past. Till next time, Ride Safe.

J&P Cycles® Senior Technician, Scott Holton

Tuning Fuel Injected Harley's® with the Power Commander PC-III-USB

2008-05-09T20:26:00Z

If you read the article "Introduction to Harley-Davidson® Electronic Sequential Port Fuel Injection (ESPFI)" in the last J&P® Express, (that article is also on the J&P® web site in the 'Tech' tab) you'll remember that I mentioned we would be discussing tuning of the system using the Power Commander in a future article, so without further introduction, let's get started.

First of all, this article will deal with the Dyno-Jet Power Commander, PC-III-USB unit, J&P® part numbers 720-428 (02-06 EFI, TC Touring) 720-427 (99-01 EFI TC Touring) 400-680 (01-06 EFI Softail®) 720-430 (02-06 EFI V-Rod®) 720-426 97-98 EFI EVO Touring) and 381-750 (04-06 Dyna® Glide) These units all use Maps with a .djm file name extension. These Maps can be downloaded at no charge from the Power Commander web site www.powercommander.com

I won't attempt to go through installation of the PC-3-usb on your bike, as Power Commander has excellent instructions covering installation. I do have to point out that the Softail® and Dyna® Power Commanders are the exact same device, and use the same maps. The part number difference between them is because the Softail® PC-3 unit comes with a new, deeper ECU tray, which is not needed for the Dyna®. While we are talking about those differences, note that Softail® Maps are numbered M805-XXX*, and Dyna® Maps are M810-XXX*. Either of these map series can be used on a Softail® or 04-05 Dyna®. The 2006 Dyna's® use M811-XXX* series maps.

The PC-3-usb exists to overcome the EPA mandated "leanness" found in stock Harley®'s, and to optimize air/fuel ratios and timing on stock or modified bikes, without having to have your bike's ECU "flashed" every time you make changes or modifications. A PC-3 with a map for a completely stock bike with no other changes, will give you more HP and torque that you will easily be able to detect in the seat of your pants. The PC-3-usb is a 'plug and play' device which requires no wiring changes and sits between the bikes ECU and the outside world, thus 'intercepting' commands issued by the ECU and either adding or subtracting fuel and timing pulses to the injectors and ignition system. Some folks will say that the PC-3-usb unit is not load based, which is, of course, not true. The bikes ECU and its connected sensors, as we discussed in the Introduction article last time, clearly show that the system itself is load based.

O2 sensor equipped Bikes: On some 2006 model bikes, O2 sensors in the pipes came as standard equipment. Power Commander has written maps for theses bikes, but "O2 eliminators" are required. Why would you want to get rid of the O2 sensors, you ask? A brief explanation of what an O2 sensor is, and how it operates is in order here.

An Oxygen sensor is a chemical generator. It is constantly making a comparison between the Oxygen inside the exhaust system and air outside the engine. A Zirconium stabilized yttrium oxide ceramic shell is coated with a layer of platinum. When the nose is heated the platinum will begin to react with the exhaust gasses and a voltage potential will form between the inner and outer layers. The sensor does not begin to generate its full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. Prior to this time the sensor is not conductive. The O2 sensors used in Harley's are fourwire narrow band sensors, which have a voltage output usually between 0 and 1.1 volts. A rich mixture will leave very little free oxygen and the reaction will send out a voltage greater than 0.45 volts. If the engine is running lean, all fuel is burned, and the extra oxygen leaves the cylinder and flows into the exhaust. In this case, the sensor voltage goes lower than 0.45 volts. Usually the output range seen is 0.2 to 0.7 volts. The mid point is about 0.45 volts, which is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor will not spend any time at 0.45 volts. The O2 sensor is constantly in a state of transition between high and low voltage. Manufacturers call this crossing of the 0.45 volt mark 'O2 cross counts.' The higher the number of O2 cross counts, the better the sensor and other parts of the computer control system are working. It is important to remember that the O2 sensor is comparing the amount of oxygen inside and outside the engine. If the outside of the sensor should become blocked, or coated with oil, this comparison is not possible. Also if the exhaust side of the sensor has been contaminated by using leaded fuels or gasket sealers, which are not specifically identified as being approved for use with oxygen sensors, the sensor can be permanently damaged.

When the bike is operated at engine speeds between 2500 and 3500 rpm at road speeds in the 40 to 60 mph range under a steady light load (no down grades or steep upgrades, not decelerating or accelerating) for 30 or so seconds then, and only then, are you operating in "closed-loop" mode, and the O2 sensor inputs will cause a change to the ECU Map programming to attempt to obtain an A/F ratio at or near stoichiometric, or approximately 14.6 parts air to one part fuel. At all other times, the system is in "Open-loop" and the O2 sensors are not being used. With the Power Commander, it is easy to program your own "cruise mode" map, so elimination of the O2 sensors on these bikes should not be cause for concern. Perhaps in the future, a true, full time self-tuning "closed-loop" system will be available, but we're not quite there yet for 'stock' bikes.

To fully utilize the features of the PC-3-USB, a computer is required, preferably a laptop, or even a desktop in close proximity to the bike. The PC-3-USB comes with a 2-meter (6 foot) cable, allowing you to connect the device to a standard USB port on your computer. Longer length cables (USB to mini B) can be purchased at an office supply, or computer store, but the maximum length is 5 meters, or about 15 feet, without purchasing an "extender" device. While the PC-3-USB can be removed from the bike and programmed using the supplied 9V battery adapter at your desk top computer, you won't be able to check and set your throttle position with the unit off the bike. This is important, as improper Throttle Position set-up is the most common problem I see when troubleshooting a poorly running F.I. bike.

The Power Commander can also be programmed by using the three buttons on the face plate of the device, but this method is time consuming, and will not get you as close as a computer will. Changes made using the Face Plate buttons can only be viewed using a computer and the control center software, under the Tab "View" - "Power Commander Info." There, you can see how far the buttons have been changed per range, as 2%, 4%, 6%, etc.

Selecting a Map for your combination: Dyno Jet has made literally thousands of real-time dynamometer runs on bikes with various combinations of both Harley� and aftermarket pipes, air cleaners, engine displacements, cams, and the like, so selecting a Map for your combination is simply a matter of browsing the web site and selecting one that is closest to your selected combination. In many cases, when someone asks which pipes and air cleaner to select, and the bike is Injected, I'll recommend that they look at the various pre-mapped combinations on the Power Commander website, and select parts from an existing Map's comment section.

If there is no "exact match" then try to select one that is closest to you by pipe length and diameter. On air cleaners, if you have, for example, a Ness "Big Sucker" and the map you are looking at is for a "Screaming Eagle" air cleaner, that's probably as close as you are going to get, and should be fine. Additionally, you can call or email Power Commander for a Map recommendation for your specific combination. Like many others, I have found them to be extremely helpful in responding to any request. Power Commander makes a great product, and their commitment to customer service reflects that.

This article, as well as a follow on article next time, are going to deal with Power Commander users who have decided either not to utilize the services of one of Dyno-Jet's many authorized Tuning centers for one reason or another, and choose to either roll their own, OR those folks who want to refine an existing Map, be it a "canned" one from Power Commander, or one that was custom written for your bike and combination of parts. As of this writing, there are about 350 Dynojet Approved Power Commander Tuning Centers in the U.S. who can optimize your fuel map, or develop a custom fuel map for any specification on their Dynamometer. These Approved Centers have the latest Model 250 Dynamometer with the real-time air/fuel module, and have completed a special training course at Dynojet. For someone who has made all the changes they plan on, this is the easiest, and perhaps the best way to go, as you will have a map designed just for your bike and combination. There are cases where you may want to refine your custom map, though, and that's where we're going to take you in the next installment.

Till then, keep the shiny side up, ride safe, ride free, and enjoy the ride!

By Dave Bickford "Ultraboy"