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   But why would I have enough pressure in the cam cover to leak like that?I put new seals in it but before that it would suck air in and spit it out?That air has to come from somewhere.Is there a seal between the crank case and cams that may have blown??

The pressure in the cam cover case is released through the 6" pipe at the front of the cam cover - you could check that it is not plugged.  and if it is plugged, there isn't enough clearance between the lifters and the lifter blocks to blow out tube seals.

this brings me back to the work that you did - top end job, wasn't it? including valves?

makes me wonder about the valve job - a valve seal not quite right, too much valve stem to valve guide clearance - things that may show up when the engine is running that don't show up when the valves are seated aganist the head (makes for an OK compression test).

Just trying to think out loud - hope it helps

 Mine has a hose running up to the air breather for the pressure.Maybe the one lifter is worn enough to have the gap in it.It was just the intake on the rear cylinder.The guide and valves feel good.I cant wiggle them around at all so I beleive the clearance is good.I just dont know,but somethin is goin on somewhere.

Framer,

Again I'll ask. Did you, or anyone, have the cams out of it? When it's acting up, pull that plug out. What does it look like?

 the cams have not been out to my knowledge.....the plugs look the same as they always do little sooty.this is an every time thing it doesnt just act up.has decent power down low the falls on front wheel.I did re time it using he dot instead of the line and it seemed to help,i brought a brand new compression guage home today and front cylinder reads about 25 psi different than the rear so I am going after rings tomorrow and put them in.My other guages must be messed up from so many uses or something.But when I have the timing plug out there is a bunch of air blowin ou of it,is that something to worry about??

Framer,

  You're right, that's too much of a difference.

I think you said you rebuilt the top end. If you didn't check the end gap on the rings, and they were too tight, you may have cracked one or more.

Here's how to determine if it's valves or rings: Take a compression test (throttle wide open). Then squirt some oil in the cylinders. If compression improves with another test, the oil has sealed around leaking rings and raised compression. If comp. stays the same, the valves are leaking.........................

 ya I am gonna do that tonight just ran out of day light last night....

 would that thing run bad that far out of timing and run hot also????I think I was setting static timin in the advance position using the tdc line on the flywheel.....

 shot oil in and raised the front cylinder about 25 psi.I went ahead and test rode it after re setting timing on advance mark and I can actually feel the acceleration now.Big difference on power...

Framer,

 No, actually you were retarded by setting the timing on the TDC mark. A retarded engine will run hotter. Sounds like you have bad rings, as per your compression test with the oil......................

Also, in answer to your crank case pressure being excessive. With bad rings you're getting a lot of blow-by.

 thats what I was hopin to hear.gonna let her set till I get time to go get rings and put her together again.

Framer,

 Make sure you check the end gap, and adjust as needed. Be very careful installing the pistons, so you don't break any rings. It might be a good idea to mic the cyls. so you can order the right size ring set. I would do both cylinders.

 I will do both cylinders.they should be standard as he top end has less than 3000 miles right?I think it has an issue cause maybe I didnt give them time to seat or (break in)and just didnt seal properly...

It is only an hour or so to pop them appart and check (just incase there is a scratch or two)