J&P Community

Does J&P sell frames? ;~) I forgot to mention(didnt' seem nesc. to go into ALL the details) that the neck was cut first, then heated and then after they also welded in triangulated steel gussetts on either side and the bottom. I spent a lot of quality time with this frame after it was sand blasted and doing the molding and the neck is nothing but good old yankee know-how and quality. I like the fact that my bike is an antique chopper(barn find) and it is the real deal from back in the day

Ok, so I'm a little slow out the gate ;`) but I did figure out where this thing gets mounted, but without the tranny (at shop) I can't tell what orientation it is mounted. I guess I can wait until I get the tranny back, but in the meantime can anyone give me some advice on what clutch cable to run? Much appreciated!

I've got a 60 pan in a wishbone rigid. Back in the day the neck was heated, rotated maybe 30 over stock. Forks are 6" over stock. The (stock) bottom triple tree has a notch in it to hit the bottom of the neck as a fork stop. Problem is when I atttempt to mount the new aftermarket Fat Bobs, the fork top hits the tank side which of course is NO GOOD! I've been brainstorming (not good at my age) and looking here for some good advice on how to fix this situation. I was thinking of welding

I have a 60 pan in wishbone rigid. When I tore down the bike I didn't think to photograph how the mousetrap eliminator bracket "C" type attaches. I have an article by Jammer on doing a mousetrap eliminator but they don't go into any detail on the c clamp. I know this seems very simple to most of you guys so forgive my ignorance. Also, the article recommends a "heavy" clutch cable and the one that I took (cut) off is trashed, but it does seem like a very heavy duty cable