J&P Community

my 81 shovel started better with little or no backpressure.thats been my personal experience with older bikes.try a diff set of pipes and see what happens.lots of pans had those pipes tho and ran just fine. try a shot of ether in the carb and see if she dont at least tear yur leg off or start.let us know what yu figger out dude.

i have the exact same prob on my 97 flht, always have since it was new.i use teflon tape on the plug, i try to wrap it so that it is thicker towards the torx head part, then i install it carefully, if you have the correct amount of tape on it it will snug up and so far i have never had a leak. i wouldnt worry bout the tape clogging any thing up in the primary as there is no pump or small passageways to clog up. its just a chain and sprockets running in oil.i have also successfully reused the primary

i had the same prob with my bike a couple years back, changed the vac operated petcock to a pingel and it went away for a couple years. then it happened again recently and wouldnt start at all finally,turned out to be a wire broken inside the wireing loom and inside the actuall covering of the wire itself, very weird as the wire and the loom showed no evidence of trauma.if it dies completely make sure yu have juice to all of the fuse block and if you dont trace it back to the switch.

my 97 did the same thing,twice.the first time it was the plug where the switch pigtail connects to the wireing harness came loose. plugged it back in and it fired right up.the second time it was a wire broken in the harness where the wires run along the neck and head under the tank.took awhile to find and had to split open the wireing harness.still aint figured out why it broke.just soldered it back and been fine ever since.if you dont have any power to the to the part of the fuse block that handles

if yu really want to know there is a trans oil out there , not sure of the brand, my local independent bike shop sells it, that has a color in it, red im thinking. he sells motor,primary, and trans oil in 3 different colors. when i asked him wtf he said if a customer calls me saying his bike is pukeing sumpin, i just ask him what color and i know what kind of job i got comeing in.yu might try looking for sum of that.or yu can clean the bike up really with a pressure washer then when dry spray the

i live in mo, have been hearing bout the new law. i might occasionally take advantage of a lid free ride.however since i saw one of my best freinds permanently scramble his brains back in the 80's from a otherwise mild crash, i think ill just keep on wearing my lid, hell im already used to it anyway.

why are yu takeing the whole fork apart? cant yu just drain oil out the drain screw and replace the oil thru the drain hole with one of those brake fluid pumps?i think thats how my brother did his rk, said it didnt take very long at all. im fixing to do my glide one of these days,ill be da--ed if ill pay some dealer a couple three bills for it.

ive heard from old timers that water is a great decarbonizer. not sure how it works but i assume the water being compressed turns into little bb's and and basically sandblasts the carbon off piston tops and heads and shoots it out the exhuast.but id be worryed bout the rich condition that cuases all the carbon build up. but then it may be just a tiny bit that causes the prob with a motor with that high of compression to act that way, not sure.

yu could go down a tooth or two on bak and up a tooth or two on front and end up with same belt maybe?lotta werk on a belt bike but can be worth it if yu can doo it yurself for cheap.if yur looking for higher gears its a lot of werk for not that much return.kinda like being married. but each to his own.

possibly send a pic of the fray? them belts are tuff.ive got a hole or two in mine and it keeps gennin along at 30k